My Season

Thailand, according to the people here, has three seasons: Summer/Hot, Rainy, and “Cold”. I put quotations around the last season because, well, it’s never actually cold in Thailand. Not cold by California standards. Which, I suppose, is not cold compared to Minnesota standards, or Sweden standards. It’s all relative. But in the south, where I live, there are only two seasons: Rainy and Summer/Hot. Today, between classes, it began raining heavily. The drops were huge and thick, turning the world outside from a lush green to grayscale. I thought the rainy season was over!! It was supposed to be over sometime in February. The average rainfall in March is something like 2 inches. This year, it was over 28. Two huge storms knocked the south of Thailand flat on its behind. That surely had to be the end. But no. Because as I gaze out the window of the teachers’ lounge, I see it. Please don’t think I am complaining, though. It’s just… interesting.

So, maybe I misunderstood the seasons here. Misunderstandings happen on an hourly basis- not just between foreigners and Thais, I am realizing. It’s also between Thais and Thais. No one really seems to know what’s going on. Once again, I’m not complaining. It’s just… interesting. And it provides for some humorous situations. No one knows where the bus station is, or what a certain word is, or if they have a certain menu item available, what the weather will be tomorrow, or what season it is. The beauty of it, though, is that it all seems to work out okay. The people just shrug it off. There are more important things. It’s true- there are.

Just after the rain began, I walked into one of the classrooms, where the students were working after-school on a math project, and I asked them, “Boys and girls, I am sorry to interrupt you, but could you please tell me what season it is?”

“Summer!” was unanimously heard, echoing off the walls (this school is SO loud).

“Well, then what’s that?” I asked, pulling back the new curtains and pointing out the window.

They all began laughing. They did their “Crazy Teacher Laugh”. I often hear this laugh, and it makes me smile. I love that they think I’m a little wacky. Right back at ya, kids!

“Teacher! I don’t know what that is!”

“Teacher! That’s global warming!”

“Teacher! It’s Summer, but Summer is rainy sometimes, too.”

And I think in my head, as they shout out answers, well, then what’s the point of even having seasons? Why separate the weather if the weather basically stays the same? Maybe there are subtle changes… subtle changes to me, but they are strongly noted by the Thais. I often marvel at just how different our worlds are, and yet in so many ways, the same.

If I had asked my students this question about the weather at the beginning of the year, the room would have fallen silent. Eyes would dart around furtively before looking downward, gazing hard at their desks or hands, perhaps knowing how to answer, but being afraid to. Now, they trip over each other to shout out answers. (I have to admit, also, that it probably helps that we just read Cloudy With a Chance of Meatballs and have been working on weather words.) They tell me when they don’t understand. They get my sense of humor (most of the time). Although I am very strict with them, I have this sense that they believe in who I am and my purpose for being here- to help them learn and grow and discover. I feel like they appreciate me, and all their teachers. And this, among many reasons, is why I love working here.

The students are simply wonderful. They make me laugh. They challenge me to think in different ways about things and teach in a different way. They challenge me to be better.

So the weather. It is wonderful, most of the time. Who cares what season it is? And my travels, they have been so amazing. Who cares if even when I say the Thai word for it perfectly, I cannot get them to understand what I am asking for? But the teaching- doing what I love, that is what seals the deal. And so, my friends, as I embark upon my fifth and what was originally going to be my final month here in Thailand, I must admit that I am not ready to leave. I am considering another six months. It has been so exciting (even if I want to pull my crazy teacher hair out sometimes because of it) taking on the bigger administrative tasks- hiring and interviewing candidates for teacher and principal positions, making class schedules and working to develop the student handbook and meeting with the director, mayor, and consultant on a regular basis, helping to redesign the webpage (I did not have a hand in the current site- this remodel is still in the works!), helping the Thai administrators articulate their mission and vision for the school in English, being part of an awesome group of teachers that always work hard and love these kids as much as I do. There’s so much more… I can’t think of a really good reason not to stay.

Super-soakers and Tentacles

Bali Hai!

 This past weekend, in a spur of the moment decision (literally, from the time I initially thought about it until I was on the plane, four hours had passed) I decided to forego Nakhon’s Songkran celebration and take a weekend excursion out of the country. A friend from college who works in Singapore was taking a holiday to Tioman Island, and I decided to hop on board at the last possible minute. I debated whether or not is was worth it- I would have to fly up to Bangkok, then down to Kuala Lumpur, then take a bus for 5 hours and then a ferry for two, all to spend  the remainder of my long weekend on this tiny little island. But, I really wanted to go. However, I also felt like I shouldn’t. I was being incredibly indecisive (big surprise). Tony and Maureen Wheeler, the founders and original authors of the Lonely Planet guides (aka, the world travelers' bible that I shunned at first but now love), say, “All you’ve got to do is decide to go and the hardest part is over. ” SO TRUE! The stress of decision making is the hardest part, but once you’ve made your choice,  you just kind of ride it out, either weathering the storm or basking in the sunlight. Luckily, this was a trip where I would definitely be basking.

As I packed hurriedly to catch my flight to Bangkok, I thought about how I’d be missing out on the Songkran celebration in Nakhon, but my urge to leave was so much stronger than my urge to stay. At least I had one day to participate in the festivities- I would be spending the night in Bangkok and flying to Kuala Lumpur the next day, so I made plans to meet up with some friends who were staying there and already heavily involved in the holiday.

Songkran is the three-day festival of the Thai New Year. It begins on the 13^th of April and goes until the 15^th. Some cities will celebrate for five or even nine days, and it is easily the biggest holiday in Thailand. Thailand has adopted the Western/Gregorian calendar for many purposes, the Thai Lunar Calendar is their primary system. According to this calendar, it's not even year 2011, it's 2554!! Because Thailand has a mix of many different cultures and customs, they also celebrate January 1st as the New Year as well as Chinese New Year in February. But this is their BIG one. 

Water symbolizes cleansing, and thus is a key component of Songkran- people anoint each other with water to signify a fresh beginning. Misfortune, bad luck, and hardship from the previous year are washed away as friends, family, and neighbors gently douse each other with the symbolic liquid. Young people humbly pour scented water into their elders’ cupped hands to ask for their blessing and families join together to give alms to the Buddhist monks. One of the oldest Songkran traditions is dabbing a white paste on others as a sign of protection and to ward off evil. It is applied mostly to the face. This is the religious and deeply-rooted tradition of Songkran.

If you asked any one of my students what Songkran was, however, and I did, you would not hear any of the above traditions repeated. Unmistakably, what you would hear is, “WATERFIGHT!!!” Songkran has since evolved into a three-day long, no holds barred soak-fest. Gently anointing friends and neighbors now involves a high powered water gun and barrels of water in backs of trucks, with buckets for scooping it and flinging it onto pedestrians, motorists, and anyone else within reach.  The paste is often dyed with food coloring and is no longer dabbed or smeared gently, but slathered with the same tenacity as the water, although it is not as abundant.

Crowded Streets

When I asked my students why they did it and what it was about, they got very excited and everyone began shouting things out. One boy hushed everyone else and told me, expertly, that it was something they did because the weather was hot. I liken this generation’s lack of knowledge about their native Songkran and its roots to that of some American children and Easter or Christmas. It has nothing to do with the Christian belief system, and everything to do with candy, presents, and awkward men dressed up in suits passing out these coveted things.

My Arrival in BKK-
already soaked and pasted!

Regardless, Songkran is definitely an experience. Before I left my apartment, I put my waterproof cover over my backpack- if the screams and shouts and horns permeating through my building were any indication, I would be in for a treat. Complete mayhem on the streets. I wish that I had thought to have my waterproof camera out- the streets were packed with drenched Thais in the backs of pick-ups, lined along the side of the road, and running through the streets, stopping traffic. Within minutes, I was soaked and had pink paste smeared on my cheeks and chin. And this was only a prelude of what was to come once I got to Bangkok. The moment I stepped off the bus that took me downtown, I was soaked and caked with paste once again.
Although I had a lot of fun, I could not imagine celebrating this way for more than one day- it's pure chaos! So I was perfectly content to leave for Pulau Tioman the next morning, a sleepy little island that was Bali Hai in the musical film South Pacific (1958). Here, I met up with two friends and snorkeled in beautifully clear water through vibrant coral reefs, hiked through the lush, viny jungle, ate delicious pizza, and moved at a much slower pace. It was also here that I received my first jellyfish sting.

Getting Better With My Underwater Camera
(except I think Kevin took this photo!)

We were snorkeling at the most beautiful exclusive little beach we had come to during our hike. We were the only people there for a majority of the time- it was AMAZING.
While snorkeling, I was heading closer to the big rocks at one end of the cove, hoping to see some crazy and mysterious marine life, when I began to feel something that I at first thought was sea lice on my leg. Then, it grew more intense and I knew right away something was attacking me. I panicked and kicked my legs furiously, keeping them as straight as possible. Once I felt that I had successfully kicked whatever it was off of me, I checked out my thighs and couldn't see any marks. So I carefully and quickly did a scan around me for the perpetrator. At first I didn't see anything, and then floating about a foot down below the surface, I saw it- a bulbous top with what looked like endtrails hanging below it, seeming so peaceful as it was being pushed around ever so slightly by the soft current. I am pretty sure, after conducting extensive research via Googling the words "pink jellyfish Malaysia", that it was a juvenile lion's mane jelly. It stung with the same intensity as a bee sting, although instead of centralized in just one tiny pinprick, it looked like I had been lashed across the front and side of my thighs and stung the length of it.  It honestly was not as bad as I had imagined a jellyfish sting would be, which, being someone who yearns for a little dramatic flair every once in a while, was a little disappointing.

Under the Sea

But, I still retreated from the water, just in case my legs decided to become paralyzed (they didn't) or I had some other adverse reaction (I didn't) and took the advice of my friends, which was to go to  pee on my stings (I really did). This seemed to help the stinging, however according to my extensive Google research, it is only a myth and is in actuality ineffective. Thanks a lot for the advice, friends. ;) Regardless, I say it helped. I guess you will never know unless you try it yourself. (Please, let me know how this goes, if you do. Thanks!) Whether peeing on yourself is an actual remedy for a jellyfish sting or not, I suppose it was better to be safe than sorry, and we got some hearty laughs from it. And, I now have yet another story worth sharing.

Beautiful Pulau
Tioman
(photo credit: Kevin McQuaid)

A Week in Foods

I LOVE FOOD. This blog entry shows some of the delights I have been consuming here in Southeast Asia, specifically Thailand. You won't find the fried crispy bugs or crazy food in these photos. Aside from the ants I accidentally ate when I bit into an Oreo cookie about a month ago, I have not been consuming any arthropods.*** (As far as I know, anyway!) These, instead, are just a few of my favorite things....

SUNDAY

I had this on my way to the airport coming home in KL. Pastry stuffed with chicken, potato, 

and a medium-spicy curry seasoning- you could definitely taste the cumin. Delicious.

Most places I've been to in Malaysia were Indian-Muslim style, which is a real treat for me, 

being able to get out of the Thai curry style for a bit more variety. Because I hardly ever get it,

I think Indian is my favorite type of cuisine right now. Look at the flaky, buttery goodness wrapped around
more goodness...

Chicken Curry Puff from Kafe 15
Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia

MONDAY

This is probably my favorite Thai dish. Scratch that. Hands down, it IS my favorite. 

The first time I ate it, it was basically two tablespoons of it over a bowl of rice, 

because it was so spicy. But I think I may be gradually building up a tolerance, because now the ratio 

is virtually reversed. It's this flavor explosion of hot and sour with a twinge of coconut milk sweetness, 

containing copious amounts of both green and red little hot chiles, lemongrass, ginger, 

prawns, sometimes tomatoes get tossed in, galangal, lime leaves, and mushrooms, straw and/or oyster mushrooms. The soup is always a little different every time, but I am never disappointed!

Tom Yum Goong from THE Issan Restaurant
Nakhon Si Thammarat, Thailand

TUESDAY

Bacon is a relatively new addition to my favorite breakfast at our school. It's like my comfort food because it's familiar. I can count on it, you know? My favorite 

thing to do is make a sandwich, piling on the egg, bacon, and tomato between the two slices of 

toast. The "sausage", as they like to call it, stays on my plate- not so into it. I love, love love the eggs here- They're brown eggs, and the yolks are so rich. I've never seen them like that anywhere else.

The OJ is so good- sweet and delicious! This is how the OJ is all over Thailand. I have it every school morning. I had to include this because while it's not Thai, it's a staple. And, the egg's heart shaped. 

Thai "American" Breakfast from NICS Cafeteria
 Nakhon Si Thammarat, Thailand

WEDNESDAY

I love, love, love, love getting these heavenly little morsels when we are on our way to Khanom. They

sell them everywhere, but so far, the little stand off to the right of the bus station is the best. The lady

who makes them uses the little bananas, the ones with fuzzy peels. She just dips them in 

a batter containing shredded coconut- so simple, so fried, so GOOD! The other item in the bag

are fried pineapple/potato balls and/or...something? Haven't quite figured it out yet. They're

good, but nothing compared to the fried 'nanners!

Coconut-Breaded Fried Banana from  The Stand by the Bus Station to Khanom
Nakhon Si Thammarat, Thailand

THURSDAY

Okay, I have to admit, this is from the same meal as the Tom Yum Goong. It's my favorite restaurant!! 

These two dishes plus the soup are staples every time we go. It's just SO good- 

it's where I take all my visiting friends. You sit in little thatch booths outdoors

and eat the best food ever. All around, it's amazing! So, the Thai-style cashew chicken is different

than the familiar Chinese version. First, the sauce the chicken is slathered in is thicker- I am pretty sure it's the oyster sauce that does the trick. Anyhow, the chicken is smothered in it, the cashews are toasty and delicious, and I think it's stir-fried with green onions, little pearl onions, garlic, bell peppers, and red chiles for a little kick.

Yam Plah Duk Foo and Cashew Chicken from THE Issan Restaurant
Nakhon Si Thammarat, Thailand

FRIDAY
Yam Plah Duk Foo (photo is above) is fried shredded catfish. When I heard this,
I was a bit scared. This dish actually ends up being the crowd favorite almost every time.
They bring out a plate with the fish on it, topped with, yes, more chiles, onions, and peanuts.
Accompanying it is the little bowl you see to the right- this is basically a som tom, which is a kind of shredded papaya salsa of sorts. The papaya is unripe- served green, so it is tart and crunchy rather than soft and sweet. Fresh lime juice, chiles, something sweet (probably sugar), fish sauce, and little dried shrimp (which I pick out, thank you). When the dish comes out, you break up the catfish a little
with the spoon, and then turn the bowl with the papaya salad over it. The juices soak into
the fried goodness that is the catfish. I like to mix it with sticky rice.

SATURDAY

I couldn't not include my favorite treat I get when I am traveling to the islands- Roti! Roti is actually 

made all over Thailand, but it is generally sweet rather than savory. Roti generally describes Indian

flatbread- much like a tortilla- thinner than naan but similar in taste. They have

that here, but that's not what this is. This roti, also known as pancake (although it's not like the pancakes

we know and love at home either), resembles a crepe. The dough is slapped onto a flat surface and

is flattened as thin as paper. It is then thrown onto an oiled, hot plate, fillings of your choice stuffed in, and then it is folded over itself. Oh, my mouth waters at the thought! Meaghan introduced them to me my first week. I like mine to be stuffed with tomato, onion, and "cheese",which is either a processed cheese spread or American slices. That's what you see below. But, when I do opt for sweet over savory, I get a banana roti, with Nutella, peanut butter, and then they drizzle a little condensed milk over the top.

Tomato, Onion, and Cheese Roti from The Roti Lady
Railay Beach, Thailand

SUNDAY

Everywhere I go, I have to taste the Tom Kha Gai, or Coconut Soup, at least once. Made with chicken,

 lemongrass, galang, ginger, some chiles, cilantro, sometimes lime leaf, and mushrooms, it's been my favorite Thai dish since my very first Thai culinary experience with my grandfather so long ago. Alas, I have been disappointed. I think this is one Thai dish I prefer from home. It's still really flavorful, but, believe it or not, it's just not spicy enough! This one was special, however, because one of the lime leaveswas shaped like a heart. Perfectly depicting my mood at the time...

Remnants of Tom Kha Gai
Th. Rombutri, Bangkok, Thailand

BONUS GOODIES

In case you're wondering, the following are a part of my regular diet...

An Import. Thanks, Mom!!

Who would have believed it?

"Shakes"- fruit drinks blended with just the fruit and ice. Particularly banana, watermelon, and pineapple.

Fruits and Veggies: Pineapple! Guava- but not the fruit Americans think of. Here, they're more like the color and consistency of pears, but not as sweet. And just last week, I found V-8 at a grocery store! Apples, oranges, onions, peppers, carrots, papaya, guava, weird greens that look like spinach (I choke it down because I know I need it), green beans, broccoli...

Snacks: Peanut Butter, Peanuts, Wasabi Peas... and Cornetto Double Chocolate Ice Cream Cones. Really, my diet is not so incredibly different from home. And the fried rice here is delicious. Here, it's my second favorite breakfast, topped with a fried egg. Noodles, on the other hand, even pad thai, have not been my favorite. 

  

A couple of awkward/interesting things I've learned about diet/food while here:

Pizza, anyone?

• Thais eat most meals with either a fork and spoon or just a spoon- no knives, no chopsticks, which many people think Thais use, for whatever reason.
• Thais like to serve Western-style dishes, but beware- your expectations will not likely be met. For example, if you see pizza on the menu, unless you are in a touristy area, you will most likely be getting something that looks like flat bread with cubes of processed meat, corn, etc. with mayo and ketchup (the "tomato sauce", obviously!) slathered over it. 
• Some things about meat: Sausage- If you see this on a menu, don't be surprised if something that looks like a Foster Farms chicken frank is what is brought out on your plate. And they're EVERYWHERE. Beef is not common in any dish, really. Chicken- all parts of it, including beaks, knuckles, feet, legs, etc.- is common. So is pork. And dried squid. And when it comes to fish, it is served completely whole. I have seen turtles and large larvae being sold on the street here in my city as well. They love grinding up fish and making it into fish balls.
• Restaurants like to put pictures of the food on their menus. However, these are generally cut-and-pasted from Google images. One restaurant in town has french fries on their menu with a picture of McDonald's fries in the cardboard container as the accompanying image- copyrights are clearly not an issue here.
• You would be amazed by what DOESN'T need refrigeration. We Westerners like to refrigerate everything. Thais, not so much. Meat, dairy like milk and eggs, mayonnaise, etc. generally does not get refrigerated. This could be because many more preservatives are packed into the food here. I doubt it, though, unless you are eating organic/free-range at home. Makes you stop and think...

***Editor's Note: Shrimp are apparently in the arthropod phylum. Therefore, I have consumed some arthropods. They are the only ones, however- can't even bring myself to eat the horseshoe crab because they eat it with the eggs in it....

Worst-case scenario is... Well, I'll be fine.

Leaving Nakhon for Bangkok to begin an adventure with my dear friend Alina was an adventure all on its own. With endless downpour and flooded streets, I was unsure about whether or not I would even be able to get out of the city. The airport was underwater, and so was the bus station.

I knew these two things, yet I still asked the motorcycle taxi driver (decided NOT to drive my bike anywhere with all the flooding and such) to take me to the bus station. He shook his head at me, then lifted his arm to about the bottom of his rib cage, signaling to me that the water level was much too high. I immediately deflated. There was a Thai woman sitting on a bench at an outdoor table next to where the taxi driver was stationed, and she got his attention and shook her head at him. "Mai, mai," she said, "No, no." And she went on to explain something to him in Thai while I looked on. He finished his conversation with her, asked her a couple of questions, then looked at me and said, "Okay." And we were off on his bike, the rain pelting my face and my new pink poncho (to match my pink helmet, of course!), headed in the direction of the train station. Although I really had no idea what was going on, my hopes were lifted once again.

The street was only mildly flooded in this particular area of the city. It was the same area where I took pictures a few days before as we came back into town from our vacation on Koh Tao, and comparatively, it was much better. However, the sois- the little side streets off the main avenues- were still completely submerged. Under normal circumstances, this is a heavy market area filled with streetside vendors, produce stands, and the like. At this point, the street was relatively deserted of people save the auto traffic and littered with all kinds of food products. Little red and green chiles, squash, green onions, and cabbages dotted the wet pavement in the un-flooded parts and bobbed about in the watered-down areas of the road. My adept taxi driver expertly dodged these edibles while simultaneously weaving between cars, trucks and slower motorbikes AND avoiding deep pockets of water. He dropped me off at the new "bus station"- a tarp-covered area of the sidewalk just off the central region of the city.

The rain was still coming down, and the area was packed full of people who were all trying to get out of the city before the second, ominous storm we had all been hearing about became full-fledged. I waited my turn, which was made apparent when a lady pointed at me and said, “YOU! Where you go?” and was so excited when she told me the night bus left at six in the evening. “You want VIP?” she asked me, nodding her head as if it wasn’t really a question at all. She was so persuasive I also nodded my head, and upgraded to the VIP ticket.

I was just so happy to have the ticket in my hands, to know that I was actually going to be getting out of this ill-begotten, drenched city, that it was only just before boarding did I realize that this was the VIP bus- the one I’ve heard horror stories about. Friends falling asleep and waking to find they have been robbed- their bags ransacked and pillaged down below in the luggage compartment and in the cabin. And then there’s the urban legend-like tale about friends who knew friends who were gassed!! as they dozed off to ensure a heavy sleep, and things were taken off of their actual person! So now, not only was I terrified of a flash flood sweeping my big VIP bus off the road in the middle of the night while I slumbered with my travel pillow and sarong on the top deck, I was now also worried about everything I had being stolen from me (except my iPod, which to my frustration, I forgot at a friend’s house the night before.)

I thought quickly about this. I didn’t want to get to Bangkok having been robbed blind. So, once I got on the bus, I did what any other sane person would do who did not have a money belt, which I wouldn’t use anyway because clever robbers are probably experts on robbing from those anyway: I stuffed my Blackberry, my camera, my money, ID, and debit and credit cards down my pants for safekeeping. As I did so, I snickered at my cleverness, and then pulled out my pillow and hunkered down for what would end up being a very cozy, comfortable, robber-free, flash-flood-free, and all-around uneventful ride up to Bangkok.

I watched the darkening scenery out my window until I began to feel drowsy- lush greens of every hue, tall skinny trees with big leaves. It was all very reminiscent of some parts of the U.S., like the swampy areas in and around New Orleans, and it was very comforting in its own way for that reason.

The distance covered from my city to Bangkok (about the same distance as the drive from SF to LA for you Californians, but takes twice as long) was not bad at all. They passed out waters, snack boxes, coffee, and fruit juice. There was an amazing-looking Thai movie on the big flat screens located throughout the bus. All my fears were non-existent in reality. In fact, once I left Nakhon, the nightmarish rains seemed only that- a nightmare.

Once I got to the city in the very early morning, I bought myself my very first Lonely Planet guide (after 3 months in Thailand!), got some daal and naan for breakfast at a cute little restaurant, and began to brainstorm for our adventure. My goal was to find someplace beachy and beautiful that wasn’t rain soaked to spend a couple of days. I found this in researching Ko Samet- a little island southeast of Bangkok by about two and a half hours. Alina and I met up, after just a little difficulty because her phone didn't work, and our adventure together was on!

For the first couple of days, we would be in the city of Bangkok itself. I have to admit, I have never really had any desire to spend time in this city because I thought of it as being very dirty in many ways. After talking with various friends and looking through the LP guide, I changed my mind, and I am glad I did- we were able to walk around the city that is actually pretty good-looking, take  the (in)famous tuk-tuk around (and we weren’t scammed, you just have to be wise about it- it was only 20 baht, he took us to many temples and monuments and NO gem/tourist shops at all), visited the Emerald Buddha and two other wats/temples (Beautiful- I loved the murals the most!), ate delicious food, shopped on Khaosan Road, and stayed cheaply at a place off the cute cobblestone street of Rombutri that had HOT WATER! AIR-CON! TV! (luxuries, let me tell you!) The only complaint I do have about Bangkok, however, is with the taxi drivers. I felt like they were constantly trying to take advantage and it was very frustrating dealing with them.

After our time in Bangkok, we took a mini-bus to Ban Phe pier and then caught the ferry to the tiny island of Samet. Of all the islands I have visited thus far, Samet is the least built-up and modern and has the whitest sand- fine and powdery. It carries its own charm, and our time there was expensive compared to other beach resort areas, but relaxing and well-spent. We happened to get there just as the clouds were clearing up, and on the day we left, the clouds began to come back in.

We arrived back in Nakhon this morning, after taking another night bus (valuables down the pants again!) By about 6am, we were just outside of Surat Thani, and I woke Alina so she could see outside the window- it was astounding. Whole roads completely washed away, many areas still flooded. While Nakhon was apparently hit the hardest, it was these less-developed areas that seemed to have suffered the most. I was glad to be home, until we finally walked into the door and I was met with that musty familiar smell- MOLD! I spent the first hours home scouring the closet, my drawers and other parts of my apartment, seeking out mold and moldy items to be cleaned.

Tomorrow I finally begin teaching again- I can’t wait! And I also get to drop off my clothes/sheets/other mold-damaged fabric items with a laundry lady. This will be my first experience with that- up until now I have been washing all my own clothes and drying them on the rack I bought (that my friend who visited last week so kindly helped tighten J)

Sigh, living here is definitely an experience. I’m starting to get little pangs of homesickness every now and again for various reasons, but 95% of the time, I am loving it. It's all part and parcel, I suppose. Now, to begin my "Week in Food"...!!!

A Week In Floods

from The Bangkok Post...

from the Thai Visa Forum...

Nakhon's Flooding...

The flooding/rain here has not ceased, and it is causing a lot of damage to the city. I am just about ready for it to stop. I was really looking forward to teaching again after the week-long break, but now school has been cancelled until April 4th!- I miss those kids!! Also, my plans to meet my friend from home in tropical Samui may now be thwarted. Tourists have been stranded on the island for the last three days. It may be Bangkok instead. Or possibly the west side, although they've been hit pretty hard too.
The worst thing, though, is many of my friends here have been stranded, evacuated, trapped, and their lives and everything in them has been soaked.

• Fellow teachers have been marooned, literally, on a small beach in Ko Phagnan. The wooden bridges (see my pictures from Ko Phagnan) you have to take to get to and from places on the beach have been destroyed, and as of now, they have no way out of the particular area they are in. We are not sure when they will be able to get off the island, or when they will be able to return home. So far, no one is injured and everyone seems to be okay health-wise.
• A few others have not been able to leave their homes because they are flooded in. One teacher's wall had to be knocked down yesterday as an evacuation route was needed.
• One couple that teaches here in Nakhon was out of town, and a friend went to go check on their house, only to find it waist deep in water. Their cat, who just had kittens, had dragged all of her babies up onto the mattress and was found floating amongst everything else in their house. Luckily, they were all safe. They've since returned home, but obviously cannot stay at their house. Much of their belongings are now ruined.

Also, on a much more minor note, this week I was to begin my "Week in Foods" blog entry, where I took a photo of every single thing I ate for the week. But now I've been reduced to noodle cups, peanut butter, and ice cream. Ice cream does happen to be a part of my daily diet now, but the other items do not, nor do they even begin to reflect some of the interesting things at the school cafeteria that I encounter on a daily basis. Now, it's a "Week in Floods" entry. Obviously, pun intended.

So far, though, while conditions are not the best, people have managed to say safe and together, which is what is most important.

I have been trying to make the best of this time off by responding to friends' emails, getting things together for school, planning and preparing for lessons, dealing with a lot of the admin. stuff that has come up in the last week and a half (I think we may have found a new principal!!), and getting my life and new apartment organized. I have a feeling though, that I am just hours away from cabin fever.

We made the best of it last night by ordering pizzas (It's March, so it's buy one, get one free! This being thus, we each ordered a large pizza and then split one large between the 5 of us- lots of leftovers!) and watching Beetlejuice, probably one of the best cinematic works that I can think of. But then I could not get home because the roads were flooded and it was raining too hard. I waited for a break in the rain, which did not come until about noon today, and then spent over an hour making the usual 15 minute drive back to my apartment.

I am excited for school to start again on Monday so we can continue with our lesson. We just began reading Ray Bradbury's "All Summer in a Day," where a young girl and her classmates, who live on Venus where all it does is rain, are excited to briefly see the sun for the very first time. How very apropos...

The streets are a mess- many are still flooded, including one of the two major intersections. So traffic has to be re-routed onto smaller streets not equipped for such a heavy flow of vehicles. Garbage and sediment is everywhere on the streets that are not flooded and everyone was trying to get somewhere during the break in the rain, so the streets have been very congested. I passed multiple trucks whose beds were packed with black rubber tubes- locals excited to take advantage of this rainy weather and get some good, dirty tubing in. Sirens are constantly sounding. Rescue trucks are constantly whizzing by, and the rain continues to pour....

When it rains, it pours!

Ko Tao

My diving group!

The primary reason for the holiday on Koh Tao- I'm now a
 CERTIFIED OPEN WATER DIVER!!

Since our last day on Koh Tao, the rain has been coming down virtually without stopping. I woke up midmorning to torrential downpour on the island, dreading my fifteen-minute walk down to the beachside restaurant where we had to check out. We booked the night ferry to Suratthani, so we would have all day to relax on the island… except it was raining. So our relaxing day on the beach turned into reading and eating ALL day at this little restaurant. It wasn’t all bad- it was still relaxing. I managed to fall asleep while reading twice- once curled up on the cushions after lunch, and once around dinnertime- at the table. Diving wore me out! And the rain stopped just long enough for us to stay relatively dry while the taxi truck drove us down to the pier.

Not so bad- quite cozy, actually!!

The night boat was an experience on its own- a bunch of backpackers, all in their early twenties to late thirties, from all over Europe and the Americas, piling into this boat, finding their assigned mattress pad and settling in. There were two levels, and Meaghan and I were lucky enough to be on the top. It was much more open, as in you could almost stand up straight. Poor Sean was down below, where the level is split into two rows of beds… more akin to slave trade conditions, although definitely not as bad, I’m sure. I was tired- too much fun packed into one week, and fell asleep almost immediately. I was only startled awake once- when the sea was so tumultuous I slid from my mattress down to my backpack. Many of the passengers were alarmed- as I woke I listened to people letting out surprised little yelps, gasps, and mini screams. But for me, who now rides a motorbike and has jumped cliffs here in Thailand, this was old hat, especially after my Ko Phagnan dingy boat ride, so I simply rearranged myself and went back to sleep. (I’m starting to feel like I’m not so much a tourist anymore- can you tell?) Not speaking from experience, the ride is not generally that rough, but the stormy weather made it a touch more dangerous. I know now the waves were about 3 meters high. On the way to Koh Tao the week before, we couldn’t even get a night boat because of the rough seas, and just to be clear, the ride there was no picnic either.

The view from our mini-bus window

As we got closer to home, all I wanted was to see dusty, dry yet tropical, sunny Nakhon through the mini-bus windows, but instead was greeted with flooded streets and still more rain. I watched as street vendors continued to sell kabobs and noodles while their patrons and their food carts stood in knee-deep, muddy street water; as children ran and splashed, playing joyfully about near the curbs, some pulling big black inner-tubes alongside them. Motorbikes and cars were still driving through with ease, sending wakes to the curb where the children continued playing. It was a marvel, actually- if this was home, the city would be evacuated- streets would be empty, and children would definitely not be playing among whatever was floating (or not floating) in the flooded roads.

One of many, many flooded streets- the water level
is much higher now...

When I arrived at the school to pick up my motorbike (yes, that’s right, the motorbike I am now comfortable driving- very carefully, of course- on a regular basis), the grounds were also flooded, although not as bad as other parts of the city, which I thankfully would not need to navigate through. Upon arriving, it was unbeknownst to me and my travel companions just how bad the flooding was. But thanks to trusty Facebook and the rest of the internet, we were able to see the extent of the damage and be updated fairly quickly. Many teachers, let alone native Nakhonian residents, have had to evacuate their homes, or move everything up to the second floor if they have one. We arrived on Saturday, and it is now Monday night, and the rain is continuing. The zoo has flooded and eleven! (11!!) crocodiles have managed to get loose, and only three have been caught (one has been shot). So now we have crocodiles roaming the flooded city as well. Up to this point in time, there have been seven reported deaths as a direct cause in this city alone, and four other provinces are also affected, although Nakhon is definitely the worst.

Children tubing and playing in the street

For those of you who may be worried about me, don’t be- my apartment is in an area that doesn’t flood easily and I live on the 4^th floor. And I have noodle cups galore, Ritz crackers, bottled water, and peanut butter, just in case. And clearly, if I am posting this blog update, I still have internet. The only thing I am worried about is having to set foot in disgusting street water. I’ve been busy googling water-borne, particularly flood-borne, illnesses and pathogens just to terrify myself, I think. Meanwhile, fellow teachers are taking pictures of themselves wading through water in their homes, tubing with the Thai children in the streets, etc. I had to step out into the flooded street up to my shins to grab some food, and I came back, sanitized my whole body with Dettol, and STILL have some mysterious irritations that appeared immediately after on my legs. Truly disappointing.

We are all trying to stay dry, hoping that the worst of the damage has been done, but forecasts are calling for rain like this until Thursday, hopefully clearing by Friday. School has been cancelled until Thursday, and there is no way out of the city unless you are brave with a car- the runway at the airport is also flooded, and busses and vans have stopped running. I can’t help but wonder about all this weird weather… earthquakes, tsunamis, floods, then the more minor but still queer unusual weather patterns happening all over the world. Today, friend told me about a crazy dust storm in Kuwait a few days ago… what’s going on?

My flooded school

I still went to school today- trying to take advantage of an almost empty school, work on printing out report cards, had another extensive meeting with Dr. Sisawat, the mayor’s wife, and with the director of the school about the visit from the WASC representative (she apparently LOVED my unit plans!), candidates for principal, and new teachers, the forthcoming academic year… I came in with five topics to address and three sheets of paper and left with my head spinning and an entire ream of new papers to read through. Still, I am excited about all these new duties I have at the school- it’s fun being involved in this whole process and development.

I am planning on going to school again tomorrow, but we’ll see what it looks like when I wake up in the morning. Meanwhile, I’ll just be holed up in my apartment, writing lessons, skyping, and eating noodles and ice cream!

Chickens staying dry

Big Changes!

I cannot believe I have been here over two months. When I first arrived, I felt like I had all the time in the world, and now I feel as though it is slipping away from me too quickly! Where is my time going? I always feel so busy- at school and out of school. Especially in the last couple of weeks!

Here's what's been going on...

... in School:

Back in the beginning of February, our principal left to take an administration position at some kind of adult education school in Dubai. We (as in the foreign teachers) weren’t exactly sure what changes that would bring, good or bad. One characteristic of our environment that took a drastic turn was the level of effective communication between faculty and administration. WOW.

I constantly think about just how much gets lost in translation here. The culture of relationships between people, business and personal, is so different than at home. When Thais have news that isn’t good, they simply don’t give it. You are left to find it out for yourself. In the U.S. we have a problem with this, because, well, it simply is not efficient. This, my friends, is where I have had to learn patience. And I consider myself to be a very patient person. Had our principal not sent us an email from his new post one week later, the teachers might never have known, or been left to find out through the students. The principal of NICS, for better or for worse, was our liaison with the Thai administration.

Since the beginning of March, we have also lost the associate director to the mayor’s other school, gained a new director (and the director he usurped was actually demoted), lost a teacher to the mayor’s other school, and just today, in the middle of midterms week, a new teacher began working. Please note, also, that we found all of this out by chance- no one ever informed us of what was happening. In addition, Teacher Meaghan is in Bangkok, gathering resources for our new library, and we have to cover all her classes too. Oh, did I mention it’s midterms week?

Meanwhile, I was asked by the associate director to be responsible for the hiring. At first, I thought he just wanted me to filter through some of the resumes that were coming in. But then, he was asking me to schedule AND conduct the interviews  AND make the final decision (the mayor actually makes the final final decision).  In my meeting today with the director, I found out the mayor has asked that before the directors send the prospective new teachers to him, I need to have given my stamp of approval.  (I am quite flattered by this- last week I interrupted a meeting the board was having with the mayor. He seemed quite bothered by the interruption. It was a completely awkward moment, and I thought for sure I had made it to his “bad” list.) To add to that, I’ve been handed schedules, been asked to attend meetings with the board and mayor, and a HUGE stack of books magically appeared on my desk- I am now to select the textbooks for next year. Seriously?

I am still just working through being a teacher! Figuring out how to balance different instructional methods, make the curriculum relevant to the lives of the students I teach, employ effective methods of assessment… And now I have this. Secretly, though (and I guess it is not such a secret anymore), I kind of like it. It’s a good feeling to be handed a lot of responsibility. It’s a challenge. And, I get hands-on experience with how school outside of the classroom, the politics, the relationship to the community, etc., all works. And it works HARD.  I am not making all these decisions on my own, however. I don’t think I know enough or have the wherewithal to, simply because of lack of experience. I am constantly looking things up online, conferring with the other teachers (there are only four of us, and I have been working there for the least amount of time), and have sent a few emails to people with experience at home. I want this school to live up to its potential!

Today, in the meeting with the directors about the need for collaboration and communication between administration and faculty, I communicated as best as I could, and as diplomatically as I could, the huge disconnect. More than anything, if we are going to meet students’ needs at this school, we all need to be on the same page. And, we also talked about some basic needs- curtains to eliminate the glare on the whiteboards, more than one copy of the books we use for literature circles, giving the students a twenty minute break in the morning instead of working straight through to lunch…I think, although I can never be too certain because of the whole “lost in translation” factor, that we have finally sorted out this issue of communication. Which will lend a hand to sorting out all the other issues…

…And I had no idea I had so much to write about this! I have so much more to write about: a walking tour of my city, a trip to the temple, going on an adventure to a Thai friend’s ranch, and a visit to the local orphanage. I guess all of this will have to wait until tomorrow… or the day after J