Tanjung Puting National Park is unbelievable. We left the first site after watching an orangutan feeding where, on our way to the feeding area, an orangutan came up to the raised boardwalk that went above the swamp (so we could avoid crocodiles) and stole Meaghan's water bottle. Then, at the actual feeding location, we watched two orangutans stuff bananas in their mouths. These distant yet remarkably close relatives of ours are so amazing that we left thinking if these were the only orangutans we saw on our trip, if this was the only event on our trip, it was all more than worth it. But from there, it only got so much better. Leaving now, headed back to Kumai and recounting everything...
- We slept beneath mosquito nets on the deck of our boat, settled at the river's edge, trees overhanging, with proboscis monkeys nestled into the branches. they would growl and/or bark and shake the trees violently every time we laughed too loud r accidentally banged or knocked the platform.
- During long boat rides upriver to the next site, or in the evenings after our day in the jungle, we played hearts and crazy 8's (the only game the captain who spoke no English and our guide who spoke limited English all knew), all whilst sipping on bootleg rice wine and susu machan (susu= milk, machan=tiger).
- Hiking through the last of the primary rainforest on Borneo, we drank water that magically came from the branch of a tree, ate wild and tart mangosteens, balanced precariously on planks laid down across the leech-filled swamp and still managed to get leeches on ourselves (my biggest freak-out moment), and walked among beautiful butterflies of every shape and color.
- We got to watch macaques playing in the trees and dive into the water next to our boat. It was fun to watch them live amongst the other monkey species in the forest (although they seemed to steer clear of the apes).
- We met orangutan families, watched as the mothers balanced their babies, and as their babies held on to their sides or underbellies, while they moved from tree to tree, going from the very top of the rainforest to the very bottom with ease. The trees are peppered with orangutan nests- they make new ones daily, as they move from place to place.
- It was a progression- first we observed from afar, and then somehow we became more and more comfortable with each other, so that by the end they were digging through our pockets and grabbing hold of our hands. Pan, a particularly vivacious, ostentatious, ape walked side-by-side with us to his feeding, making sure we were coming with him by grabbing our hands and pulling us along. He chose to walk upright, on two legs, holding onto us for support, almost the entire walk. We were blown away. Then, he got a little bit tired, I suppose, because after a while, he turned in front of me, stopped, and wrapped his arms around me then put his feet on my forearms, absolutely, 100% in an effort to try to get me to carry him. As much as I wanted to, carrying him was not an option- he was HUGE!
- On our last day, we finally saw a gibbon. He was at the Leakey Camp, in the trees and playing with a young orangutan right above our heads- we could touch his tail, he was that close. We also got to watch wild pigs and orangutan interacting. We also saw the rare and few purely wild orangutans, sitting in the trees and looking on at us as we began to head back downriver. It was a perfect final goodbye.
Let's be honest- while the experience was utterly fantastic, I should not be having an orangutan climbing on me and trying to get me to carry him to his banana feeding.These are orangutans that have been displaced and are being rehabilitated, but they are still completely dependent on humans. There's a very fine line... and I go on and on about this in my journal, but in addition to the experience, what I am taking away from this adventure is this:
Now that I have had this opportunity to learn about orangutans, their habitat, and the limitations this species faces, what am I going to do to help? You cannot come here and leave unaffected. There is a certain responsibility I feel. I know that I can start by sharing the experience and by sharing resources to get more information.
- Orangutan Foundation International (the person I talked to the most about the orangutans, their life, and the project was from this organization): www.orangutan.org
- Friends of the National Parks Foundation: www.fnpf.org
- Borneo Orangutan Survival Foundation: www.orangutan.or.id
June 22, 2011
I am currently in Ubud, Bali. Bali is absolutely the kind of place that steals hour heart and soul. It is beautiful, breathtakingly so. I am in love with Bali! Since leaving Borneo, we have traveled to the Gili Islands.
On Gili T. I started feeling very strange- disoriented and dizzy, and then before I knew it, my temperature skyrocketed. I was freezing cold yet it was sunny and hot. Of course, I took no malaria medication in the malaria-infested rural jungles of Borneo. So I went to the best clinic on the island... let's just say it was the best of the worst. He didn't even take my temperature and told me Gili doesn't have malaria, so it couldn't be malaria. "Right, I know that, but two days ago I was in Borneo..." "Oh, yes, that has malaria." I couldn't get a boat out to the nearest hospital in Lombok that night, so I had to stay on the island. According to CDC and LP and my first-aid book and everything else I was scaring myself with, any signs of sickness should be treated as malaria until proven otherwise. I mentally counted all the mosquito bites I received while in borneo (too many too count) and how the deet repellent didn't work- I put it on and wore long leeves and pants and was still bit to oblivion. My fever wouldn't break, even with medication, and I was so completely delirious and disoriented and achy, vomiting, horrible cramping, and I was scared. In the morning, Allan went with me to the hospital, where they did blood tests. Not malaria! Not Dengue! But, some kind of horrible virus. I had to stay for two days in Lombok to make sure that I did not have malaria/dengue and to get more bloodwork done, because my lymphocytes (spell check?) were very low and so was my blood pressure. The two diseases could have been hiding still. But, on the third day, my fever finally broke and I started feeling better. the doctor looked at my bloodwork and gave me the okay to see the Komodo dragons, armed with malaria meds, and although mystomach was still uneasy, I left on the cruise! In Lombok, we embarked on another live-aboard cruise to travel to Komodo and Flores to see the majestic dragons. We didn't see them until the last day of our horrid, horrid live-aboard experience. They were the saving grace of that trip. If we had it to do again, we would have flown to flores, stayed for a few days there, and taken day-trips to Komodo and Rinca for diving and hiking to see the dragons. Please, if you are considering this "cruise", don't do it. It is recommended by Lonely Planet, but is 100% should not be. We ended it as soon as we could reach civilization on Flores, were refunded our money (at least 3 other people from our boat did this as well- maybe 6 others making 11 total out of 30 who were so incredibly displeased), and flew to Bali the next day.
Bali is a godsend. I am still working this dumb virus out of my body- still very sensitive stomach- but I am getting better. Dear Pat in Korea, thank you for talking to the Dr.s at your base for me while I was stuck on Gili. You are a good, good friend. And I owe you. Again.
Off to the monkey forest, then a Balinese massage and a Dr. Fish pedicure... :)
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